{"id":453,"date":"2015-03-02T09:26:34","date_gmt":"2015-03-02T14:26:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/?p=453"},"modified":"2024-02-22T11:06:16","modified_gmt":"2024-02-22T16:06:16","slug":"beat-goes-cartagena","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/beat-goes-cartagena\/","title":{"rendered":"The Beat Goes On in Cartagena"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><em>by Sherry Ott, AFAR Ambassador<\/em><\/p>\n<p>I could feel bass beat reverberate through my body and waft through the neighborhood as I stepped out of the car and walked through the open door twinkling with Christmas lights.\u00a0 The beat seemed to be as powerful as the hug I received when entering the Perez-Cuesta family home in the suburbs of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.cartagenadeindias.travel\/?la=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Cartagena, Colombia<\/a>.\u00a0 It was a welcome like no other for my first night in Colombia.\u00a0 I was expecting a handshake and I received a powerful, emotional hug &#8211; one that in my culture is normally reserved for close family or friends.\u00a0 I quickly learned being hugged with gusto was a normal greeting in Cartagena, as each of the four daughters came and did the same thing as they seemed to burst with excitement about the evening.<\/p>\n<p>Upon arrival in Cartagena, my first exposure to the local culture was to actually set foot in a local\u2019s house and be treated to one of the most genuine and heartwarming nights I can remember in my travels.\u00a0 As Ruth, the mother, was busy cooking dinner the daughters entertained us showing us the small but lovely three bedroom home and answering my many questions about life in Cartagena.\u00a0 More family members and neighbors seemed to pour in like a moth to the flame.\u00a0 I was struck by the affection of the entire extended family and random neighbors, all hugging and greeting as if they hadn\u2019t seen each other for ages.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_458\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-458\" style=\"width: 900px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-local-dinner.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-458\" alt=\"The Perez-Cuesta family + cousins + neighbors + me = a bundle of energy!\" src=\"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-local-dinner.jpg\" width=\"900\" height=\"506\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-local-dinner.jpg 900w, https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-local-dinner-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-local-dinner-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-local-dinner-640x360.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-458\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Perez-Cuesta family + cousins + neighbors + me = a bundle of energy!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The plantanos were frying as we shared beers in the living room, but all the while I was aware of the music in the background.\u00a0 The whole neighborhood had their doors and windows open and everyone seemed to be living to the beat. Thinking about all the times I wanted to scream at my neighbors for playing music too loud in their apartment, I asked if any of the neighbors ever complained about the music in the neighborhood.\u00a0 They looked at me surprised as if they didn\u2019t even hear the music outside, and they had suddenly become aware of it now.\u00a0 \u201cNo, everyone loves the music\u201d Ruth answered slightly confused at why I would even ask the question.<\/p>\n<p>Cartagena, Colombia is a symphony of sound more than any place I\u2019ve ever been. \u00a0The constant drumbeat seems to be the heartbeat of the city.\u00a0 Musical scenes play out on every corner of Old Town, Getsemani, and even little beach towns like Manzanillo.\u00a0 Everywhere I went people were laughing and moving to the beat.\u00a0 Giant speakers in public were the norm as people spilled out of establishments and into the streets of Cartagena at all hours of the day.\u00a0 This music was the canvas to their overall bubbly free-flowing personalities.\u00a0 This was a culture with gusto and energy, they lived outwardly and because of that, I immediately loved Colombia.<\/p>\n<p>As I walked around the Old City, I watched a waitress move her hips to the beat and pump her arms up in the air for a moment as if everything else around her has disappeared.\u00a0 The barefoot man in Bazurto market walking among a dozen big pots of oil with furious flames lapping up beneath them plops whole fish in the hot oil in perfect beat to the music.\u00a0 As he moves on to the next big pot he shuffles his feet as if he\u2019s salsa dancing with a ghost and then plops in another fish.\u00a0 All the while with a big smile on his face doing what seems to me to be one of the hottest, hardest, and thankless jobs I\u2019ve seen. I round a corner in the Getsemani neighborhood and find a crowd around three men playing music.\u00a0 One has an accordion, one has an old pail for a drum, and one has what resembles a cheese grater; together they make beautiful high-energy music.\u00a0 The crowd of locals moves to the beat and claps along.\u00a0 All I could do was stop and smile at this scene of pure music joy.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_459\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-459\" style=\"width: 900px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-music-on-the-streets.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-459\" alt=\"Music and smiles found all over the streets\" src=\"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-music-on-the-streets.jpg\" width=\"900\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-music-on-the-streets.jpg 900w, https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-music-on-the-streets-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-music-on-the-streets-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-459\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Music and smiles found all over the streets<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I needed to find a way to get more involved; I was tired of being on the outside of this music looking in.\u00a0 I wanted to feel the music like the locals, and Eduardo, my Avanti Destinations\u2019 assigned guide, suggest I take a private salsa lesson in the Old City.\u00a0 It was a hot steamy night as I walked up the stairs into the dance studio and startled the tall man lounging on a metal chair.\u00a0 He didn\u2019t speak English, but that was ok as all I had to do was follow his lead.\u00a0 He turned on the overhead fans, looked at me, smiled, and a barrage of Spanish started flowing.\u00a0 I just smiled and followed his steps.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_454\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-454\" style=\"width: 900px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-dance-lessons-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-454\" alt=\"Learning the 1, 2, 3, tap of the Salsa!\" src=\"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-dance-lessons-1.jpg\" width=\"900\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-dance-lessons-1.jpg 900w, https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-dance-lessons-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-dance-lessons-1-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-454\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Learning the 1, 2, 3, tap of the Salsa!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I learned different salsa steps including the Colombian and Cuban versions which seemed to me to have subtle variations, but to the locals it was very clear delineations.\u00a0 My hips seemed to loosen up as the music got louder and finally after following his every movement in front of the class he took my hand and we danced together.\u00a0 I could hear the crowd outside starting to rev up for the night and I bid my instructor adios and went out to test out my newly learned skills.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_455\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-455\" style=\"width: 900px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-dance-lessons.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-455\" alt=\"Now I\u2019m really dancing!\" src=\"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-dance-lessons.jpg\" width=\"900\" height=\"506\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-dance-lessons.jpg 900w, https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-dance-lessons-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-dance-lessons-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-dance-lessons-640x360.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-455\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Now I\u2019m really dancing!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Upon the recommendation of Eduardo, I found just what I was looking for at Donde Fidel\u2019s Salsa bar.\u00a0 As I rounded the corner near Plaza de la Coches you could hear the music.\u00a0 It was as if the Pied Piper were luring in the dancers around the Old City late into the night as the restaurants closed.\u00a0 I followed the music to the corner and found a lively colorful scene with women moving their hips like I never knew was possible.\u00a0 That certainly wasn\u2019t covered in my beginning salsa class; those were advanced movements for sure! But the Colombians made it look so easy and carefree, like they came out of the womb moving their hips and feet in a rhythmic fashion.\u00a0 But after a lifetime of music, of course dancing would come as naturally as walking to them.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_461\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-461\" style=\"width: 900px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/Looking-in-on-Fidel\u2019s-Salsa-Bar-\u2013-a-mix-of-people-and-music.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-461\" alt=\"Looking in on Fidel\u2019s Salsa Bar \u2013 a mix of people and music\" src=\"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/Looking-in-on-Fidel\u2019s-Salsa-Bar-\u2013-a-mix-of-people-and-music.jpg\" width=\"900\" height=\"506\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/Looking-in-on-Fidel\u2019s-Salsa-Bar-\u2013-a-mix-of-people-and-music.jpg 900w, https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/Looking-in-on-Fidel\u2019s-Salsa-Bar-\u2013-a-mix-of-people-and-music-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/Looking-in-on-Fidel\u2019s-Salsa-Bar-\u2013-a-mix-of-people-and-music-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/Looking-in-on-Fidel\u2019s-Salsa-Bar-\u2013-a-mix-of-people-and-music-640x360.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-461\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Looking in on Fidel\u2019s Salsa Bar \u2013 a mix of people and music<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I sat at the bar content to watch the sites of young, old, tourist, and locals all intermix in salsa beat.\u00a0 There was no real dance floor, but no one cared, whatever space was available was used.\u00a0 People bumped into each other and no one minded, as eternal smiles seemed to be on their faces.\u00a0 It took exactly two songs before I was beckoned to join.\u00a0 I knew the locals wouldn\u2019t let people sit around for long and just be a voyeur.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_456\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-456\" style=\"width: 900px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-Fidel-Salsa-Bar-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-456\" alt=\"Locals feeling the beat at Fidel\u2019s in the Old City Cartagena\" src=\"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-Fidel-Salsa-Bar-1.jpg\" width=\"900\" height=\"506\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-Fidel-Salsa-Bar-1.jpg 900w, https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-Fidel-Salsa-Bar-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-Fidel-Salsa-Bar-1-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/ustoa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/cartagena-Fidel-Salsa-Bar-1-640x360.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-456\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Locals feeling the beat at Fidel\u2019s in the Old City Cartagena<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Soon someone had my hand and I was hip to hip with strangers, smiling, laughing and moving to the beat produced by the giant sound system behind the bar. Instead of being on the outside, I was on the inside now, my inhibitions slipping away with each step.\u00a0 After the set of songs, I gave my new dancing partner a powerful, emotional hug like Ruth gave me when I arrived in Cartagena.\u00a0 I didn\u2019t even care that he was a stranger, it just felt right &#8211; now I really was a part of Colombia.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>by Sherry Ott, AFAR Ambassador I could feel bass beat reverberate through my body and waft through the neighborhood as I stepped out of the car and walked through the open door twinkling with Christmas lights.\u00a0 The beat seemed to be as powerful as the hug I received when entering the Perez-Cuesta family home in [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[29],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-453","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-cartagena-de-indias"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v24.3 - 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