Cycling Croatia

by Colin Roohan, AFAR Ambassador

VBT guides are always willing to dish out a little encouragement

VBT guides are always willing to dish out a little encouragement

As I slowly crawl up another incline on my bicycle I check my mirror to see a pack of septuagenarians inching closer and closer. In an instant, the ringing of passing bells mutes the sound of my bike chain. One-by-one the group passes me, most of whom have roughly 40 years on me, and I’m the one out of breath! I could justify my sluggish performance on my recent spike in olive oil and truffle consumption on a recent tour of Istria and Split, but no one likes excuses. Inspired by the cycling of others in my group, I take a deep breath, gear-up and spin my legs a little faster. Not long after, I reach the peak feeling satisfied by the sweeping views of the Adriatic Sea and by my ability to keep on pushing. I’m in Croatia, on the island of Brac, on a cycling tour with USTOA tour operator and member, VBT Bicycling and Walking Vacations which will take me through the islands of Brac and Hvar in the Croatian region of Dalmatia.

Our cycling group walking into Postira.

Our cycling group walking into Postira.

The tour started in the town of Split, where I was to meet up with the rest of the tour group before we all ferried to the island of Brac. Upon meeting the group and guides I was growing increasingly more excited. I had never been on an “active” tour before, so meeting everyone and hearing their enthusiasm for cycling, and other cycling trips they had taken in the past was very motivational. With all the continued introductions and chatter the ferry trip went by rather quickly and soon we were at our first destination on Brac, the village of Postira. Postira is a quiet village meant for R&R, and the only thing more eye-catching than the boat filled harbor was the dramatic mountain filled landscapes. One of our guides, Lada, walked us into the village and familiarized us with some of the necessary landmarks before leading us to our hotel.

Our guide Lada orienting the group within Postira.

Our guide Lada orienting the group within Postira.

After checking in, the group met for a safety and bike fitting session before a short warm-ride to give us a taste of the island. I’m very glad that there aren’t many cars driving on the island of Brac because the sight of farmers harvesting their wine grapes made focusing on the road extremely difficult. Everyone returned from the warm-up ride, and while the group readied themselves for the welcoming dinner that evening, our two guides worked out any kinks people had with their bicycle configurations. Later, the group strolled along the harbor as the sun light waned in the distance. We were led to a family-run restaurant, with smells of garlic and savory spices wafting out, and were greeted with chilled shots of small-batch brandies. Inside we sat down by candle light, the dining hall buzzed with sounds of laughter and conversation. That was until the hostess brought out the main courses, three types of peka cooked proteins. Peka is a method of cooking popular in Dalmatia in which a protein is stewed in a vessel similar to a Dutch oven (just shallower) with sauce, various spices and vegetables. The dish is covered with a metal lid and then fire embers are placed on top. I selected the octopus peka and when I took my first bite I was amazed by the texture as it was akin to the texture of chicken.

Beef, fish and octopus being prepared peka style.

Beef, fish and octopus being prepared peka style.

I woke up the next morning ready for a day full of cycling. We began at a slow pace through winding pastoral roads that led us by fields of fig and olive trees. We were headed to the town of Pucisca with an arduous climb in our way. Just as I thought about motioning for the VBT van to give me a lift, I caught a glimpse of the patchwork white and terracotta buildings of Pucisca. Suddenly, the lactic acid burn in my muscles was an afterthought. Pucisca is a gorgeous seaside village that wraps around the teal Adriatic Sea. Pucisca’s most unique attraction is its stonecutter’s school, where the main material worked on is limestone which the island is famous for. The quality of limestone from Brac Island is actually so good that it was exported to the United States to be used in parts of the White House in Washington, D.C. The stonecutting school looked exactly like the images I had conjured up in my head: huge chunks of stone everywhere, piles of rock shavings and T-squares. What was most impressive to me is that the students use all manually powered tools like they would have centuries ago.

Touring the stonecutter’s school in Pucisca.

Touring the stonecutter’s school in Pucisca.

On our last day on Brac, the group’s hard work was rewarded with a trip to the famous Zlatni Rat, or Golden Horn beach in Bol, on the southern coast of Brac. The weather was perfect, as it was sunny but not hot, and despite the water being a little chilly it seemed to remedy everyone’s cycling aches and pains. What makes the beaches on this island unique is that instead of sand, the beach is a mixture of varying sizes of pebbles. I found the best way to enjoy them was to lay down on the smaller ones near the water’s edge and the rocks provided an acupressure release of sorts. This, in combination with the lapping waves, almost lulled me asleep until I heard someone murmur the magic word…cappuccino. After a relaxing light lunch in Bol we all boarded a small chartered ferry for our second stop of the biking tour, the island of Hvar.

The VBT group ferrying from Brac to Hvar.

The VBT group ferrying from Brac to Hvar.

We arrived in Hvar Town (the island’s capital), where our hotel was located, in late afternoon. The cafes lining the harbor were starting to fill up with patrons and the smells of coffee brewing and wine aerating began to fill the air. At sunset everyone met in our hotel’s courtyard so that we could all walk together to an intimate cooking lesson at a nearby chef’s home. Chef Ante Vucetic, our host, was incredible. When we arrived, he invited us into his garden for a small tour—tasting this plant and smelling that fruit along the way. We passed several jars of small-batch, flavored brandy on our way back to the dining area where there were some of those brandies chilled and waiting for us. Our dining table was in view of Ante’s outdoor kitchen and as he explained his cooking philosophy he also explained what he would be preparing for us: a starter of a tomato based stew-like dish called salsa (pronounced shalsha), and a delicious grilled tuna steak rubbed with olive and spices accompanied by some lightly mashed potatoes and buttered green peas. The flavors were nice and simple, but the quality of the ingredients really made these dishes shine. On top of these dishes I use a liberal amount of some of the best salt I have ever had, which Ante had gathered from rocks lining the sea…impeccable flavor. The meal was one of my most memorable highlights and Ante made our evening incredibly special.

The tour of Croatia was coming to an end, but I still had one more day of cycling ahead of me. The main destination for the day was the Stari Grad, a quiet village on the northern side of Hvar. But before that, the planned route would have the group cycling around the town of Brusje. Despite the intense sun, the sea breeze traveling over the island kept everyone cool. The terrain looked a little different on this part of the island, as it resembled arid desert and was less wooded— apparently perfect for growing lavender. As I made my way up the last portion of the hill I spotted the rest of the group on the side of the road interacting with a woman selling lavender products. Some were buying cycling jerseys decorated with lavender and some smelled the different essential oils on display. The group pressed on toward Stari Grad, a tranquil destination that is very small and easy to navigate on foot. I spent my time wandering the cobblestone back alleys and peaking my head into boutiques and artisan shops. I stopped at one of the many small bakeries and had a lunch which consisted of a jam filled pastry and milk, and if I wouldn’t have had to bike back home I can assure you I would have had another round.

VBT members taking in another beautiful view.

VBT members taking in another beautiful view.

That evening everyone met near the Hvar Town harbor for a farewell dinner and as we sat dining on fresh seafood and delicious Croatian wine we listened to the sounds of the peaceful Adriatic. I had been biking for roughly a week straight but I didn’t feel sore at all, I was actually thinking about how I would miss my bicycle, and the daily route reviews with our guides. Being with a group of people all driven to complete a physical challenge was something I missed. The comradery I felt on this trip was incredible and it will be a feeling that I carry with me for some time to come.

Colin Roohan is a travel photographer interested in documenting experiences with culture and life. In addition to his work with AFAR, Colin has been published in Travel + Leisure, The Royal Geographical Society’s Hidden Journeys, and Groove  Magazine, amongst others. In addition to journalistic pursuits, Colin captures portraits and documents events around Southern California.

In Croatia: Harder the Climb, the Sweeter the View

by Kelley Ferro

I consider myself an “active” person so when I joined up with VBT Bicycling and Walking Vacations “active” bike tour in the Croatia’s Dalmatian Islands, I thought it’d be no sweat. But to my surprise, there was a bit of sweat…in the best way possible. We grinded our gears up steady inclines and we flew down cliffs, but all the while, we were gliding by lavender scented hills and the glittering Adriatic. Uphill or downhill, what remained constant was the feeling of being so alive and present each moment in this country.

The View from the top of the hill in Brac!

The View from the top of the hill in Brac!

I have to admit, when I travel, it’s usually go-go-go the entire time. I don’t have a lot of time to actually breathe in and be completely present in the moment as I always have to think about the next stop, shoot, line etc. However, on this particular trip, I traded a car for a bike, and my mind was forced to focus only on the immediate. Pushing those pedals and cresting that hill (or if you are like me, trying to take a photo and bike at the same time) took up pretty much all of my brainpower and in doing so, allowed me to immerse in Croatia in a new day.

The rolling, drop-dead gorgeous rolling hills of Istria provided the perfect terrain for a warm-up ride.  Our energetic guide Marco, led us on natural mountain trails, with a backdrop so stunning, we all had to make frequent stops for photo opportunities. The Istrian topography was ideally suited for the pace of bike travel: gently sloping green hills with bike paths between villages evenly spaced so you can have breakfast in one and lunch in the other. And believe me, you will want to too, as these Istrian villages off world-class food– fragrant truffles, wild meats, the sweetest honeys, rich olive oil and local Istrian wines.

Pre- Truffle Hunting Breakfast at Karlic Truffle

Pre- Truffle Hunting Breakfast at Karlic Truffle

But this sweet first day of biking and eating in Istria, was just the introduction of active adventure. Before we knew it we were onto the next stop and we had touched down in Split: Croatia’s vivacious and historic portside town. From a bustling waterside promenade and well preserved castle, to twisting streets full of busy cafes, restaurants & shops, Split had energy and a dose of sophistication bursting from its historic buildings.

Riva: Split’s bustling waterfront promenade

Riva: Split’s bustling waterfront promenade

Naturally, we were on the search for the best ways to film the city so up we went. Marjan Hill is a park popular for running, concerts, weddings and of course, sweeping views of Split, where the mountains meet the sea. The steps up continued and I found myself wishing I were on a bike to get up to the top faster. But on we charged and we were rewarded with hitting the peak at magic hour, when Split was bathed in rosy, dewy light of the setting sun.

Sunset in Split

Sunset in Split

But there were more mountains to climb, and the island of Brač beckoned. We met our fellow bikers, the rest of the intrepid crew that signed up for our VBT Bicycling and Walking Vacations tour, and we set sail via ferry for the first island.

This vividly green island seemed to be built for biking–wide shoulders hugging mountain roads, idyllic small towns and roadside beaches so beautiful I frequently had to screech to a halt. With the charming seaside town of Postira as our biking off point, we crisscrossed Brač, taking in mountain top vistas, and cobbled town streets and just the raw, glorious countryside.

Pučišća from the top

Pučišća from the top

Biking everywhere was exactly what made this trip so special. Each experience was that much more enhanced because our blood was pumping and we were physically working to get ourselves there. It’s true that the harder the climb, the sweeter the view.

For me, no moment epitomized that feeling more than my bike ride up to Škrip, a small, mountain top town on Brač.

Stunning Pučišća

Stunning Pučišća

Škrip was the bonus part of the first day’s ride. We biked a steep but jaw-droppingly picturesque route to and from the charming seaside town of Pučišća. The best part was getting to see Pučišća from above as you rode in — it is stunning from all vantage points. Upon our return, after a wholesome lunch and a very interesting tour of a marble carving school, we had the choice to bike an extra leg, the most challenging part we’d ever encounter on the trip.  The leaders of our group were fit and experienced, and they told us in no uncertain terms that this was going to be tough, but it was completely optional. I chose to bike it.

Lunch & Marble Carving School Tour in Pučišća

Lunch & Marble Carving School Tour in Pučišća

Lunch & Marble Carving School Tour in Pučišća

Something about the fresh air, the Mediterranean sun and the free feeling of focusing solely on pedaling, inspired me to tackle that last leg. It was hot, the air was dry but I was loving the burn as I pushed the road bike up the hill to Škrip. Though I did wonder if this hill would ever end; the farms, the waving locals and the views of distant islands gave me all the energy I needed to continue up. I saw the roadside sign for Škrip and the road magically leveled out. I had made it! With a euphoric feeling of victory, I sped along the ‘piece of cake’ road through a town of no more than three small buildings, ending in a church square with dappled with trees. I parked my bike, knowing the rest of the group would be there shortly and began to explore around as I regained my breath.

Luta waiting for us in Škrip

Luta waiting for us in Škrip

A little, elderly lady jumped up and hobbled towards me. She and I had a few moments of hand-motions and a muddled mix of Croatia, English words, we finally settled on basic Italian were able to communicate. Her name was Luta, and she was waiting here to show the VBT group the homemade wine and olive oil that she produces at her home. I translated her story to the group–she & generations before her have been making wine and olive oil in Škrip for the past 100 years. She nodded, pushing small plastic cups of wine and olive oil into our hands to taste. She made it all by hand with little frills or help, and her face lit up as we told her how delicious they were.

Selfie with Luta

Selfie with Luta

The handful of our group that had decided to push on and crest the hill to Škrip got the chance to meet the wonderful Luta and spend time in her home. Not only was this the best surprise at the end of a hill, but knowing that we had gone the extra mile on bike made this experience even more blissful. Being completely present made me love those few uphill rides the most because nothing beats the feeling of reaching the top.

Kelley Ferro is a travel expert & video journalist living in NYC. She films her show, Get Lost, around the world–hopping on a plane at least twice a month She is also the executive producer for Tripfilms.com. For more on her travels, follow Kelley’s Facebook page.

 

 

 

 

Touring Croatia: Istria & Split

by Colin Roohan, AFAR Ambassador

Afternoon light in the Istrian countryside

Afternoon light in the Istrian countryside

As I sat inspecting my mosquito bites and mud-soiled shoes near the trailhead, I heard pandemonium from deep inside the dense Croatian forest: a mixture of laughter, amazement, and dog yelps. I knew right then exactly what was going on – a truffle had been found, and by the sound of it, it was a big one. My colleagues and I are in the Croatian region of Istria scavenging for truffles with our guide from the Karlic Estate, and despite the rising welts on my forearms and neck I am close to euphoric. I could equate it to the truffle extravaganza I had at breakfast that morning, but the far more likely reason is my trip in Croatia up to this moment has been full of culinary delights and incredible scenery.

Istria is a place of understated beauty: rolling hills broken up by patches of olive groves and vineyards, peak after peak of picturesque villages, and the occasional glimpse of the sea. My Istrian journey began in one of these villages, Motovun. This medieval village’s history precedes the 1st century with ties to ancient Roman inhabitants. However, in the 14th century Motovun was governed by Venetians who fortified the city with huge stone walls, which are still intact today.  But, as gorgeous as the architecture is, the true highlight for me in Motovun was a private performance of the town’s klapa group. Klapa is a traditional a cappella singing style practiced throughout the Dalmatia region of Croatia, in which songs typically express themes of love, wine, the land, or the sea. The klapa performance I attended took place in Motovun’s Church of St. Stephen where the all-male singing group’s perfectly pitched voices bounced beautifully off of the painted frescoes on the cathedral ceiling.

Klapa Motovun performing in Motovun’s Parish Church of St. Stephen

Klapa Motovun performing in Motovun’s Parish Church of St. Stephen

Klapa Motovun performing in Motovun’s Parish Church of St. Stephen

Klapa Motovun performing in Motovun’s Parish Church of St. Stephen

The following day my colleagues and I set off with our guide from Istria Tourism, Marko. The plan was to arrive at the Karlic Estate to sample some fine truffles and learn a bit about the truffle industry. After absorbing a few facts concerning both white and black truffles our host, Radmilla Karlic, whipped up some delicious recipes that she thought showcased truffles best. The first dish consisted of slices of baguette and a cream cheese-like spread, topped with a slice of gorgeous black truffle. Our second dish was one that Radmilla particularly recommended as she noted how well the flavor of the truffles would be pronounced: scrambled eggs with mild parmesan cheese, and of course, a generous amount of shaved truffles on top. The meal was incredible, and afterward, we were served some strong Turkish coffee while we perused the Karlic gift shop where the mouthwatering products ranged from truffle flavored butter to freshly made pork sausages laced with truffles. Had I known that leaving the shop and going into the woods to hunt for truffles would have led to the aforementioned mosquito fiasco I probably would have stayed put, opting for rounds of crisp white wine and truffle laden snacks!

Sampling brandies at the Karlic Estate

Sampling brandies at the Karlic Estate

Several hundred dollars’ worth of fungus

Several hundred dollars’ worth of fungus

A beautiful cross-section of a black truffle

A beautiful cross-section of a black truffle

The tour of Istria then led west to the seaside town of Novigrad, a small village that appeared to have more fishing nets than people. Arrangements were made for us to join local chef, Marina Gasi, in her restaurant Konoba Marina for a light lunch. Chef Gasi’s restaurant is unique in that she doesn’t have a menu, instead she prefers to cook dishes which inspire her day-to-day. Her inspiration usually hits her while walking through the Novigrad fish market, and what caught her eye on the day of our visit was sole. Chef Gasi prepared the sole sashimi style, laying the cuts atop a bed of purple grained rice that was then lightly seasoned with a very light citrus dressing. She stated that this type of dish is indicative of her cooking style as it really emphasis the freshness of the seafood.

We had all over-indulged, so our guide thought it would be a good idea to do a little mountain biking through the countryside around the village of Groznjan. We readied the bicycles and equipment then began our descent. A tunnel here, an olive grove there—there was so much beauty our guide had trouble keeping track of us as there were so many scenic bluffs from which to photograph. This ride was a good warm up for my legs considering I would be doing much more in the next few days throughout the Dalmatian Islands with VBT Bicycling and Walking Vacations. After our ride, Marko thought it would be a good idea to head to nearby Benvenuti Vineyards for a tour and some refreshments. We were greeted by Livio Benvenuti and his son Nikola who were very pleased to have us. We toured the vineyards, the storage cellars, and the tasting room. For me, watching the sun go down out in the Istrian countryside with a chilled Benvenuti white wine was the perfect way to say good bye to this agriculturally rich land.

The following morning we were up early for a short flight and drive that led to the charming coastal city of Split, a city with a healthy symbiosis of tradition and modernism. The main attraction of this city is undoubtedly Diocletian’s Palace built around 300 A.D. Now, when I say palace most will conjure up visions of UNESCO-run tourist sights which are roped off in certain areas and completely void of life once closing time hits, not Diocletian’s Palace. Here the tight labyrinth of stone alleys is crammed with cafes, restaurants, and bars all buzzing well into the early morning. In addition commercial buildings, the palace also contains apartments within its walls and in these 220 buildings there roughly 3,000 residents.

We met with our guide for the day, Dino, who gave us a tour of the palace grounds— something I highly recommend, as there were many aspects of the palace I would have overlooked had Dino not been able to provide the history. The whole palace is truly remarkable but my favorite area had to be the Basement Halls. There are vendors selling goods, and the cavernous basement is unreal. It is a little amazing to think of all the chaos ensuing over your head on those bustling lanes within the palace. After leaving the palace walls we walked down the Riva, a promenade lining part of the Split Harbor where everyone from fisherman in overalls to 20-somethings in stilettos has a few minutes on the catwalk. While an audience of cappuccino sipping café patrons take notes on the latest fashion dos’ and don’ts. We continued walking west past the Riva’s end towards Marjan, a hilly nature reserve with trails, scenic lookouts, and a historic chapel. Seeing Split from a bird’s eye view gave me a better idea of how busy the harbor and smaller surrounding islands were as boats of all sizes seemed to be in a constant ebb and flow between them.

That evening in my hotel room, within the palace walls, I sat listening to the noise below. I heard a handful of languages, a whole lot of laughter, and the occasional clinking of glasses. For me, these sounds are representative of my time spent in Croatia: a country whose identity has been molded by various cultures throughout history. Regardless of where you are in the country, the locals are inviting and eager to show you Croatia through their eyes.

For highlights of Colin Roohan’s tour through Croatia, click here.

Colin Roohan is a travel photographer interested in documenting experiences with culture and life. In addition to his work with AFAR, Colin has been published in Travel + Leisure, The Royal Geographical Society’s Hidden Journeys, and Groove  Magazine, amongst others. In addition to journalistic pursuits, Colin captures portraits and documents events around Southern California.