Finding Beauty in Day to Day Life in Historic Cuba

By Ben Schuyler, AFAR Ambassador

I’ve often found that when you mention visiting Cuba to someone, it’s undoubtedly the case that you will be asked about a combination of the following things – communism, cigars, rum, music, and classic cars.  It’s not without good reason that these are common topics, but the diversity of this unique Caribbean island avails so much for adventurous souls looking for new paths to explore.

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My time traveling to Cuba with smarTours began at the heart of the country’s biggest city – Havana. Greeted by a local guide and expert on the history of the surrounding architecture in Old Havana, we walked cobblestone streets and learned about the Spanish influence on the colonial-era buildings. I was fascinated by the information being shared, yet I couldn’t help but be distracted as I watched locals navigating their morning. A young couple walked by drinking café cubanos, carrying a newspaper and briefcase. A group of construction workers hauled materials in a wheelbarrow for a restoration project. An old man swept in the park. Each little vignette revealed a more intimate reflection about what daily life as a Cuban could look like. Capturing these moments in my photographs became a theme of how I enjoyed my travel experience.

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The next step in the journey with my travel companions brought us from Havana to the city of Sancti Spíritus, one of the oldest settlements in Cuba and the capitol of the Sancti Spíritus province. We arrived at our hotel to find it perfectly positioned on the edge of Parque Serafín Sánchez, the central park of the city and a meeting place for visitors and locals alike. Late into the evening children gleefully chased one another around a fountain positioned in the middle of the park. Nearby speakers pulsed familiar songs as karaoke patrons did their best to sing along and entertain the on looking crowd. The recent addition of Wi-Fi to the location has made it a popular spot for people to connect for a moment to search the Internet or communicate with loved ones. The pleasant warm breeze paired with a delicious Cuba Libre made for a relaxing time of reflection and people watching.

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Rich in cultural history, Cuba is home to nine UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Of those, we had the pleasure of visiting Old Havana, Cienfuegos, Camaguëy, and Trinidad. A town that thrived in the boom of the sugar cane industry, Trinidad sits adjacent to the Valley de los Ingenios and is now known for producing tobacco. Breathtakingly preserved, I found myself transcendently returning to a time when the sugar trade drove life in the colonial town. The Afro-Cuban influence can be felt and experienced through art, music, and dance in Trinidad at Palenque de los Congos Reales. The performance center exhibits centuries old traditional folklore performed to the steady beat of conga drums. Volunteers keep these stories alive while working other jobs in different fields.

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It’s without question that one of my favorite moments during my time in Cuba was visiting the home and studio of Bernardo Valeriano Casanova Fuentes – ceramic artist based in Camagüey. He spoke only a few words, instead allowing his son to share his story, as he attentively formed piece after piece at his workbench and potter’s wheel. In a matter of ten minutes, Bernardo produced a diverse collection of artifacts from single slab of clay. His property was modest, well lived in, and beautiful. It wasn’t flashy or showy, but encapsulated the sustainable life he has found doing what his loves everyday.

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Cuba has something to offer to all kinds of visitors – classic car enthusiasts, cigar aficionados, history buffs. More than anything, I found for myself that the daily life of the Cuban people was the most intriguing and beautiful facet to my visit.

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Interested in learning more about Ben’s journey?  Read more about it on AFAR.com, the USTOA blog and check out check out smarTour’s The Best of Cuba tour.

A Pacific Northwest native, Ben has spent his life drinking coffee, hiking the Cascade Mountains, and breathing the salty air of the Puget Sound. Ben’s inspiration includes dirt roads, flora, and fauna, and his photographs capture a sense of adventure in warm colors that produce an ambient nostalgia. He recently traveled America to document mobile living: When the Road Is Home.

Alberta, Like a Local

By John Newton, AFAR Ambassador

Collette's Canada Winter Wonderland

In almost 20 years of working as a travel writer and editor, I’ve often been reminded that a good strategy for experiencing any destination like a local is to visit in the off-season. Paris in July is wonderful, no doubt, but there’s also something appealing about it in November, when the museums and restaurants are less crowded; waiters and shopkeepers are less harried and have more time to stop and chat. It is part of why I jumped at the chance to join the Collette Winter Wonderland trip to the Canadian Rockies in January. While I know that Banff and Jasper Park in the summer must be unbelievably stunning (they are in the winter too), I’ve also heard that along with long summer days come long queues of buses and tourists outnumbering the bears. Here are six lessons in traveling like a local from this trip which I intend to practice on my next one too.

1)     Let a Local Be Your Guide. While the guide on this Collette trip, Daniel Boghen, is Canadian he isn’t from Alberta itself (he’s from Montreal). But having repeatedly led trips in the Canadian Rockies, he knows all the right people. He was able to arrange experiences that aren’t available to most travelers, like an off-hours visit to the Alberta provincial legislature, and knew the best places to stop for postcard perfect shots along the Icefields Parkway.

2)     Opt for Local Transportation. Traveling by train or bus is often a better way to experience a destination the way residents do than exploring in your own rental car. In Alberta in the winter, traveling like a local means putting on a pair of snowshoes or hopping in a dog sled. A snowshoe walk through the woods on this Collette trip was a chance to experience Jasper National Park in all its majesty without any crowds.

Dog Sledding on Collette's Canada's Winter Wonderland

3)     Do Your Homework. Having some context for the sights you see makes every trip richer, and I try to make time to read a history of any country I’m visiting, as well as fiction by one of its leading writers. Daniel made the homework part of traveling easier, providing us with printouts on the geology of the Rockies and explaining, in his lively way, aspects of Canada’s culture and history.

4)     Try Local Foods. From Nanaimo bars (a custard bar with a chocolate base) at the Bear’s Paw Bakery in Jasper to Alberta bison at the elegant Fairview at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, the trip offered a number of opportunities to try local specialties. Sample them, though you may want to beware of eating too many maple candies and desserts unless you follow them with some cross-country skiing or a glacier hike.

5)     Join the Party. Alberta’s winter calendar is crowded with events to help residents get through the cold days till spring returns. Visitors are definitely welcome and our trip coincided with Banff’s SnowDays, complete with illuminated ice sculptures including a castle that served as the entrance to an ice-skating rink on frozen Lake Louise.

Ice Sculpture Collette's Canada's Winter Wonderland

6)     Get Up Close with the Locals. In winter, you won’t be able to see one of the Rockies’ most famous residents, its bears (as they are hibernating), but it becomes easier to spot many other animals—elk, foxes, wolves, mountain sheep, and mountain goats among them—thanks to the white backdrop of snow. Just remember to keep a respectful distance.

Elk Collette's Canada's Winter Wonderland

Interested in learning more about John’s journey? Read more about it on AFAR.com, the USTOA blog and check out Collette’s Canada’s Winter Wonderland itinerary.

John has almost 20 years’ experience in travel, both on staff at Conde Nast Traveler and Travel + Leisure and writing for other magazines, newspapers, and websites. He is AFAR’s Branded Content Advisor and the founder of Signal Custom Content, a travel branded content consulting company. His 2016 plans include Ireland, Manitoba, Japan, Netherlands, and California.

Live Like a Local in Peru

From mountains to deserts, from city to sea, Peru’s diverse landscape is as rich as its culture and has had many stories to share since ancient times. Join Kelley Ferro, travel expert and video journalist as she journey’s through Peru with USTOA tour operator Travcoa.

Known as a culinary capital of South America, Peru is the perfect travel destination for foodies. USTOA tour operator member Travcoa introduces travel expert and video journalist Kelley Ferro to local cuisine, markets, restaurants, bartenders and chefs.

Join travel expert, video journalist and contributor to Tripfilms.com Kelley Ferro, as she explores the culturally rich and historic capital city of Lima, the first stop on her private journey through Peru with USTOA tour operator Travcoa.

For more on USTOA’s Travel Together campaign in Peru, click here.

Explore Croatia Like a Local

Croatia offers jaw dropping landscape, picturesque towns, incredible local food and a living history that’s felt throughout. Explore Croatia with travel expert and video journalist Kelley Ferro as she cycles through this dynamic country with USTOA member, VBT Bicycling and Walking Vacations.

Ready to explore more? Watch the videos below to experience the incredible culture, landscape and food of Croatia.

Food of Croatia

Local Products in Croatia

The Locals of Croatia

Explore Croatia

Being Active in Croatia

Explore Taiwan Like a Local

Travel expert, video journalist and contributor to Tripfilms.com, Kelley Ferro picked Taiwan for her first trip to Asia. The island nation has so much to offer; from the energy of the big city to the serenity of postcard-worthy beaches. Explore Taiwan alongside Ferro as she tours its vibrant landscape, culture, history and food with USTOA member Ritz Tours.

Ready to explore more? Watch the videos below to experience the incredible culture, landscape and food of Taiwan.

Taiwan’s Culture

Tropical Countryside

Taiwan’s Cultural Food

Ritual Ceremony

Taiwan’s Street Markets

A Local Perspective in South Africa

by Nina Dietzel, AFAR Ambassador

To me, South Africa is one of the most fascinating countries to visit. It is furiously multi-cultural; a young democracy struggling to grow up fast to meet the country’s many challenges.

When I was invited to join Collette’s tour back in April, I was overjoyed, and at the same time I was a little hesitant to accept my assignment. The charge was to ‘travel like a local’ and I wasn’t quite sure how to accomplish that in a group, dashing from highlight to highlight across South Africa.

Tesse Easingwood on top of Table Mountain, Cape Town

Tesse Easingwood on top of Table Mountain, Cape Town

The minute we met our South African ground connection and guide Tesse Easingwood– it was clear, we’d experience our travel through a local’s perspective. Tesse has boundless energy, compassion, knowledge, and humor. With her in charge we had no choice, but to see the real South Africa–the good, and sometimes also the difficult.

To start, Tesse was refreshingly upfront about her background: “Before you ask, of course I grew up during Apartheid. My entire family, including me, were pro apartheid.” Her family, like many others, left as soon as Nelson Mandela came to power in 1994. Tesse wasn’t prepared at all to follow in the footsteps of her family. Determined to share the new, emerging country with travelers, she stayed: “How could I not? I love South Africa!”.

Township school visit, Knysna

Township school visit, Knysna

Around the mid point of our journey, we arrived in Knysna, a small, picturesque town in the Western Cape Province, part of South Africa’s Garden Route. By then, we must have taken in more than a thousand facts about South Africa. I wasn’t quite sure I had the capacity to retain a single piece of additional information without my brain exploding.

A great storyteller, Tesse swiftly brought us back to pay attention: beautiful Knysna had been founded by no-other than her great great grandfather! Seriously? All of a sudden, we were captured again; history was no longer presented in the abstract, it had been brought back to life right here through the sparkling South African in our midst. Many other magical moments happened daily along the way, far too many to mention here. Our South African ‘guide turned friend for life’ was the secret weapon made this journey simply unforgettable.

Knysna Estuary boat ride to Featherbed Reserve, land once owned by Tesse’s family

Knysna Estuary boat ride to Featherbed Reserve, land once owned by Tesse’s family

Tesse made good on the promise the first day we met: “I’ll give you my heart & soul on this trip and will try to answer all of your questions, no matter how difficult they may be.” Her honest, open and above all loving approach to life and sharing experiences made for a journey that will stay with us forever–the ultimate gift. Thank you Tesse Easingwood, with all our hearts.

Nina Dietzel is a photographer and AFAR Ambassador based in San Francisco. Between travel and photography assignments, she continues to consult on select projects for destinations, hospitality, cultural organizations and non-for-profits in need–tapping into her vast experience as brand strategist with 300FeetOut, an award winning creative agency she launched and lead for over 15 years. Read more about her work here.

Local Food Experiences in Cairo

by Alison Cornford-Matheson, AFAR Ambassador

For me, there’s no better way to explore a country’s culture than to explore its food scene. Wherever you travel in the world, you can find passionate foodies, and Egypt is no exception. While visiting Cairo with Abercrombie & Kent tours, I had two food experiences that left me feeling as if I was local.

I love falafel. It’s one of my go to weekend foods in my current home city, Brussels. So when Fiby, my local expert from A&K, mentioned she knew where I could get the best falafel in Cairo and I could watch them being made, I jumped at the chance.

We pulled up outside Felfela restaurant, a local institution, since 1959. Stepping through the door, I knew this was my kind of place. The first thing I saw was a chef, dressed in his whites, tossing fresh made falafel in boiling oil.

Felfela Chef - Local Food Experiences in Cairo

Felfela Chef

Another chef appeared behind the first, with a huge bowl of dough. He showed me how Egyptian falafel differs from the better-known Lebanese version. Instead of chickpeas, Felfela’s falafels are made with fava beans and a variety of herbs. The dough is lighter, making for a fluffier centre. Pair that with a crunchy, crispy crust and you have falafel heaven.

There are several dining options for enjoying your Felfela falafel. Pass by the falafel chefs and enter the quirky dining room, for a sit-down falafel experience. The restaurant has a jungle theme with tables made of tree trunks and greenery everywhere. There are even a few songbirds to add to the atmosphere. Along with your falafel, you can also enjoy a variety of Egyptian specialities and grilled treats.

Felfela Restaurant - Local Food Experiences in Cairo

Felfela Restaurant

If you need a falafel on the go, just pop around the corner to Felfela’s take-away location. Here, your falafel is served inside a flatbread and topped, as you like, with plenty of tahini and fresh vegetables. It’s the perfect stop for a quick snack on the run.

I arrived at my next local foodie destination to find a cloud of smoke. Rather than make me cough, this particular smoke made my mouth water.  As I stepped through the gate of the Andrea Restaurant, I was greeted by row after row of rotisserie chickens, turning lazily in the charcoal haze.

Andrea chickens - Local Food Experiences in Cairo

Andrea chickens

A man shoveling coals in a series of clay ovens stoked the outdoor grill. Dozens of chickens were cooking in various states of doneness. It takes 24 hours of marinating in a secret blend of local herbs and spices, followed by more hours on the spit, before these birds are ready for your plate.

Andrea chickens - Local Food Experiences in Cairo

Andrea chickens

The result is well worth the wait. The chicken is meltingly tender and the herby flavour permeates all the way through. Heavenly.

But chicken isn’t the only thing the charcoal fires lend their flavours to, at Andrea Restaurant.

Just beyond the turning spits, sit a cluster of women. While they sit chatting and laughing, their hands rhythmically pat and shape dough into small, round, disks. They slap the disks on the inside of the ovens and seconds later, tiny flatbreads emerge, puffed full of hot air. The hot, smoky bread is the perfect complement to the juicy chicken.

Andrea Bread baker - Local Food Experiences in Cairo

Andrea bread baker

Inside the restaurant, the succulent chicken and toasty bread is served with a variety of Egyptian mezze: delicately spiced meatballs, stuffed grape leaves, chunky hummus and more, round out the meal. It’s Egypt on a plate.

Andrea bread - Local Food Experiences in Cairo

Andrea bread

Both of these local food experiences in Cairo revealed a side of Egypt I wasn’t expecting. The local passion for food is deeply ingrained in the culture. Discovering the food of Egypt helped me relate to the people who create it and relating to locals is what travel is all about.

Alison Cornford-Matheson is a Canadian freelance writer and travel photographer and the founder of Cheeseweb.eu, a resource for expats, locals, and travellers in Belgium. She landed in Belgium in 2005 and became passionate about this quirky little country. She is an AFAR Ambassador and founding member of the PTBA. She is obsessed with travel, food, and local experiences. You can follow her on Google+, on Twitter as @Acornn, on Pintrest or check out her Facebook Page. See more highlights from Alison’s trip at AFAR.com.

Living Like a Local In Egypt

by Alison Cornford-Matheson, AFAR Ambassador

There is a myth that group travel sets you apart from local experiences. Tucked away in air-conditioned buses and luxury hotels, travellers are distanced from the country they are visiting. However, on my recent tour of Egypt with Abercrombie & Kent, coming in contact with passionate locals was one of the highlights of my trip.

The local experience began as soon as I set foot in Cairo Airport. Three members of Abercrombie & Kent greeted me at the gate and immediately welcomed me ‘home.’ The legendary Egyptian hospitality was in full force as they whisked me through customs to the waiting car.

While many tour operators hire internationally, the A&K team in Egypt are all Egyptian, and all of them are happy to offer perspectives on their country. Their local knowledge is vast and no topic ever felt off limits.

Karnak Temple, Egypt - Living Like a Local In Egypt

Karnak Temple

Egypt’s rich and timeless history is one of the main reasons it tops many travellers’ ‘must visit’ list. There are countless sites to explore, from temples to tombs, to the vast collections of the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities. While they are all fascinating, it can be easy to lose sight of their importance and local context, without the help of a trained Egyptologist.

Egyptian Museum Collection - Living Like a Local in Egypt

Egyptian Museum Collection

Abercrombie & Kent’s guides have an encyclopedic knowledge of Egyptian history. But, unlike some guides, who spew facts and figures without context, A&K’s Egyptologists share their passion for history and bring it to life.

Mohamed at the Pyramids - Living Like a Local in Egypt

A&K guide, Mohamed Osama at the Pyramids

I was fortunate to have Mohamed Osama as my A&K guide in Egypt. Mohamed’s face lit up each time he told us a story about a particular tomb or temple. His anecdotes about the past kings and queens, and his passion for the artistry and ingenuity of the artisans, who built these masterpieces, transported me back in time and gave me a deeper understanding of Egypt’s fascinating history.

Mohamed in Karnak - Living Like a Local in Egypt

Mohamed in Karnak

The A&K team members certainly weren’t the only locals I encountered in Egypt. I had the chance to interact with people from dramatically different spheres of society.

During my tour, A&K organised a dinner with guest speaker, Mona Makram-Ebeid, one of Egypt’s most influential women. Despite her established career in politics and academia, she answered our questions with patience, candor and a touch of humor, helping us to understand the complex political situation in Egypt today.

Mona Makram-Ebeid - Living Like a Local in Egypt

Mona Makram-Ebeid

A powerful advocate of women’s rights in Egypt, Makram-Ebeid explained how young people and particularly women fueled the revolution. “Women are ready to resist,” she told us. “And I believe that in the next elections they will participate, forcefully so, and they will not sit back and wait to be given that right; they will take it.”

She also explained how dramatically Egypt has changed over the past 40 years. People used to be afraid to speak out in public, she told us. Now everyone is ready to share his or her opinion. Indeed, after her talk, the Egyptians at our table immediately began to discuss their thoughts on what Makram-Ebeid had to say. By the evening, I had a deeper understanding and respect for what the people of Egypt have experienced over the past few years, and what their hopes are for the future.

At the other end of the spectrum, our group had the opportunity to interact with the young students of a carpet school in Sakkara.

Egyptian carpet detail - Living Like a Local in Egypt

Egyptian carpet detail

In addition to learning to read and write, children here learn the ancient art of carpet making, for several hours each day. Their education gives them the opportunity to stay in their town and earn a good wage for a skilled trade, or continue their schooling elsewhere.

Carpet School - Living Like a Local in Egypt

Carpet School

They were all smiles when showing us how they create these beautiful carpets from delicate silk thread. The speed and precision of their fingers as they knot the colourful carpets is hard to believe and mesmerising to watch.

These types of experiences would be difficult to have in Egypt, as a solo traveller. Touring with Abercrombie & Kent offers visitors the unique opportunity to experience Egypt in comfort, while engaging with locals who are excited to share their country with visitors. I can’t wait to be welcomed ‘home’ in Egypt again.

Alison Cornford-Matheson is a Canadian freelance writer and travel photographer and the founder of Cheeseweb.eu, a resource for expats, locals, and travellers in Belgium. She landed in Belgium in 2005 and became passionate about this quirky little country. She is an AFAR Ambassador and founding member of the PTBA. She is obsessed with travel, food, and local experiences. You can follow her on Google+, on Twitter as @Acornn, on Pintrest or check out her Facebook Page. See more highlights from Alison’s trip at AFAR.com.